A quite common Furmint and Hárslevelű blend from one of the best producers of Tokaj, positioned just under 10 Euros so that it’s affordable. Production is also considerably bigger for this entry level white, than for the top wines.
There is quite a lot of Muscat planted in Hungary and besides some very cheap, sweet(ened) versions it’s actually used for dry wines – that’s perhaps not the most common path for Muscat growing countries. And these dry versions can be good, very good.
Returning to the roots. This Grenache and Carignan blend is made with ancient winemaking techniques, and the result is clearly different from the oaky, heavy interpretations of Priorat most of us are familiar with.
Turán is a Hungarian cross, a teinturier grape variety (whose flesh is red, or rather inky purple) with poor reputation. It ripens early, has a muscat-like aroma but it’s very tannic and slightly bitter to taste. A blending component to boost color, not much else – at least in most winemakers’ eye.
A small batch Syrah from one of Szekszárd’s top producers, Heimann. The new generation – jr. Zoltán Heimann – is making more and more impact on the winery style and I’m sure this wine reflects his ideas.
This is simply one of the greatest dry Tokaji Furmints I have ever tasted. I can recall only a few bottles of Szepsy and Demeter Zoltán from the last two decades, that amazed me this much. Those were made in a very different style, though, oaked and full-bodied.