Oliván-Ruiz Custero Rioja 2023

What a beautiful label. I hoped that the wine itself will be just as amazing, but that wasn’t the case. I should have checked the ABV before buying: it’s  alarmingly high at 15%. That explains a lot.

Raisins, dried cherries and some marzipan on the nose, it’s over-ripe and quite oxidative, completely lacking any kind of freshness. Like a dry version of a LBV port, the palate confirms that impression, it’s full-bodied with quite some heat on the finish. If you prepare for a dessert wine, this is actually good and enjoyable in a way (still overpriced, though), but fails as a Rioja table wine. 86 points, 15,85€ at decantalo.com.