The previous vintage of this kadarka was partly aged in oak, but in 2023 they only used amphora and Clayver – I’m happy to see that such a big producer moved to a more transparent style. In fact I never tasted a red from this address that I loved this much. Continue reading
If you ask me, the most dynamic red wine region of Hungary at the moment is Szekszárd. Ahead of others, they moved early from oaky, heavy reds made mostly from Bordeaux varieties to the indigenous kadarka and kékfrankos – and let’s add bikavér to the list, which is based on the former two. Continue reading
I quite like what the Bock crew brings out from Hungary’s native kadarka grape. With just a touch of oak this fragile variety becomes a bit more serious, yet does not lose its charm – being light and so drinkable.
The Mátra wine region is the neighbour of the more famous Eger in Northern Hungary and it’s somewhat similar in soils and climate. On the other hand it’s rather known for white wines, not reds, although long time ago it was mostly planted with kadarka, which is hard to find there these days. I know only two producers who bottle that variety, one of them is Anna Barta in Nagygombos.
The more kadarka I taste the more I like the variety. It’s like a light pinot with a distinct spicy flavour – if you are into delicate red wines, it’s a must try. This one from Szekszárd producer Szekretár is definitely one to recommend.
Hungary has a long history of winemaking but it does not have many old vineyards – the 20th century wasn’t kind to us. But you can see a kadarka plot in these pictures (click on them to enlarge), planted in 1935.
Kadarka is an indigenous red grape variety to Hungary, even though it most likely originates in the Balkans. It produces a light red wine which tends to be fairly simple, but it’s quite distinguished and has some pinot-noir-like qualities and appeal. Continue reading
