If you ask me, the most dynamic red wine region of Hungary at the moment is Szekszárd. Ahead of others, they moved early from oaky, heavy reds made mostly from Bordeaux varieties to the indigenous kadarka and kékfrankos – and let’s add bikavér to the list, which is based on the former two. Continue reading
kadarka
Tüske Pince Harmados Kadarka 2023
The revival of the indigenous variety kadarka is one of the most exciting topics of the Hungarian wine scene at the moment. We now have some examples that are more serious than those made in the past, but let’s review a classical one, the Harmados from Tüske Pince. The 2023 vintage is every bit the lighter bodied, pale red you can expect from a kadarka.
Standout kadarka: Bock BV 2020
I quite like what the Bock crew brings out from Hungary’s native kadarka grape. With just a touch of oak this fragile variety becomes a bit more serious, yet does not lose its charm – being light and so drinkable.
Barta Anna Kadarka 2021
The Mátra wine region is the neighbour of the more famous Eger in Northern Hungary and it’s somewhat similar in soils and climate. On the other hand it’s rather known for white wines, not reds, although long time ago it was mostly planted with kadarka, which is hard to find there these days. I know only two producers who bottle that variety, one of them is Anna Barta in Nagygombos.Szekretár Unfiltered Kadarka 2023
The more kadarka I taste the more I like the variety. It’s like a light pinot with a distinct spicy flavour – if you are into delicate red wines, it’s a must try. This one from Szekszárd producer Szekretár is definitely one to recommend.Old kadarka vines in Szekszárd at the Márkvárt Pince
Hungary has a long history of winemaking but it does not have many old vineyards – the 20th century wasn’t kind to us. But you can see a kadarka plot in these pictures (click on them to enlarge), planted in 1935.
Standout kadarka: Bock 2019
Kadarka is an indigenous red grape variety to Hungary, even though it most likely originates in the Balkans. It produces a light red wine which tends to be fairly simple, but it’s quite distinguished and has some pinot-noir-like qualities and appeal. Continue reading
Lajvér Kadarka 2021, Szekszárd, Hungary
I liked what I tasted from Lajvér in the past, but this current release of their kadarka is a bit different. It’s from 2021 and similarly to most Hungarian wines of that vintage (BTW it was a poor one in many parts of Europe), I find it challenging rather than agreeable.
Supermarket wines: Eszterbauer Sógor Kadarka 2023
The Sógor kadarka is back on form! The 2023 is as good as the best vintage I have tasted yet, the 2019. It’s good news, regarding that the 2022 was a disappointment. It’s a bit early but so far it seems that 2023 yielded the most charming and delicious Hungarian wines in recent years. Even though it was a disaster for most wine producers…Top notch kadarka: Heimann & Fiai 2022
The Heimann family did it again. An outstanding kadarka, great successor to the amazing 2021 – and one of the most exciting Hungarian red wines out there.