Standout kadarka: Bock 2019

Kadarka is an indigenous red grape variety to Hungary, even though it most likely originates in the Balkans. It produces a light red wine which tends to be fairly simple, but it’s quite distinguished and has some pinot-noir-like qualities and appeal.

Villány is not a wine region one associates with kadarka, but a few producers grow it. I recently tried Bock’s 2019 and it blew me away. This is one the best kadarka reds I tasted in recent years, and one of only a handful I ever scored 90 points.

Fully mature and really beautiful. Fragrant, poised, jumps out of the glass. a bit reminiscent of a light nebbiolo with its faded roses and tobacco aromas, accompanied by dried red cranberry and a touch of leather. Delicate and seamless, it’s so silky and easy to drink. Light tannins, just enough to add a little structure. Savoury and finessed, has tons of personality. 90 points. It’s getting close to the end of the plateau, so drink now. Current vintage costs 3490 HUF (9€).