The new Szekszárd – Heimann Family Estate introduces their new lineup of red wines

At the end of January I visited Szekszárd on the Southern part of the country. Together with Villány, it is the region making the ripest, more full-bodied reds of the country, based on mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – but in a different style than Bordeaux. There is generally a slight move away from overoaked, big reds in recent years, but what I tasted at the region’s most famous producer Heimann is something groundbraking.

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One to drink, not to analyze: Schieber Kadarka Trilógia 2018 from Szekszárd

Kadarka rarely gets cheaper than the Schieber Trilógia 2018 from Szekszárd. That means 5-6 Euros on shelves. I wonder if it makes enough profit for them, considering that Kadarka is tricky to grow – the tiniest bit of rain around harvest time results in serious rot and loss of crop. One of its best producers, Heimann told me once that they do rigorous grape sorting to ensure quality, discarding half the crop on average.

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A different take on Villányi – Rácz Miklós Tamás Cabernet Franc 2017

After the unusual Pinot noir (reviewed here), an even more surprising Cabernet Franc from young talent Rácz Miklós Tamás. A Cabfranc without oak, from the home of over-oaked red wines? I’m sure fellow winemakers think Miklós is crazy, but in my opinion this wine is as close to terroir expression and elegance as you can get, from this variety in this region.

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There is no white wine like this – Németh Pince Budai Zöld 2018, Badacsony, Lake Balaton

Based on that label you would never guess this is a serious wine. It is. It’s basically non-existent on the market, as it’s a small producer and they sell everything at cellar door – there is only one wine place where you can do that in Hungary, near lake Balaton, where tourist are  plenty. It’s a shame, as this little producers makes some of Hungarys most unique and long living wines.

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