At the end of January I visited Szekszárd on the Southern part of the country. Together with Villány, it is the region making the ripest, more full-bodied reds of the country, based on mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – but in a different style than Bordeaux. There is generally a slight move away from overoaked, big reds in recent years, but what I tasted at the region’s most famous producer Heimann is something groundbraking.
Bolyki is one of the most well known producers in Eger, and this is their special edition Kékfrankos, available only at cellar door. I would not be surprised if it would sell off quickly, just because of that pretty label. Continue reading
Late harvest sweet whites may not be popular at the moment, but they deserve more recognition. It’s a category that Hungary can make make really well. Continue reading
Csókaszőlő or simply Csóka is an almost extinct old Hungarian variety, which was probably the dominant red grape here 500 years ago or so. For the XXth century, not much of it remained, but thanks to József Szentesi’s mission of saving the old varieties, it is now coming back slowly.
I might be overly enthusiastic about this wine, but I’m so happy to find a dry Furmint I really like, as I struggle to love the variety recently (sweet Tokaji is a clear exception, though).
After the unusual Pinot noir (reviewed here), an even more surprising Cabernet Franc from young talent Rácz Miklós Tamás. A Cabfranc without oak, from the home of over-oaked red wines? I’m sure fellow winemakers think Miklós is crazy, but in my opinion this wine is as close to terroir expression and elegance as you can get, from this variety in this region.
Based on that label you would never guess this is a serious wine. It is. It’s basically non-existent on the market, as it’s a small producer and they sell everything at cellar door – there is only one wine place where you can do that in Hungary, near lake Balaton, where tourist are plenty. It’s a shame, as this little producers makes some of Hungarys most unique and long living wines.