Exemplary Kadarka and great value: Eszterbauer Sógor 2019

I could not name a Kadarka from the last few years which was affordable and as good and well made as this entry level Eszterbauer. It even surpasses most of the expensive ones, as they are faulty to some extent, more often than not (main reason is that the variety is extremely susceptible to rot/Botrytis, harvesting healthy crop is rare, just ask Hungarian grape growers).

This is simply how Kadarka tastes like, when it’s good. Light and uncomplicated, yet has a savory appeal akin to simple red Burgundy. It’s even finessed. Tart cherry, rose hip aromas and spiciness that’s hard to describe – it’s just exemplary. Clean, no sign of Botrytis. Just a bit of structure, but still a drink now proposition. Just perfect for what it is.

Rating: 10/10 as an everyday wine. Coup de coeur. (87 points on the 100p scale).
Price: 1890 HUF, equals to 5€.
Value: fantastic. Buy, buy, buy!
Stockist: Borfalu and others in Hungary, sometimes available in Lidl too.
Wine region: Szekszárd, Hungary.
Tasted: March, 2021.
Source: own purchase.

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