Hungary has a long history of winemaking but it does not have many old vineyards – the 20th century wasn’t kind to us. But you can see a kadarka plot in these pictures (click on them to enlarge), planted in 1935.
hungary
Supermarket wines: Eszterbauer Tanyamacska Kékfrankos 2021
I liked the 2019 vintage of Tanyamacska and have been following the wine since that release. The 2020 was a little step back but still good, and the current 2021 is unfortunately disappointing. I must add that in my view 2021 is a poor vintage throughout Hungary – most wines are sharp and sour to taste, lacking balance and drinkability.
Four cabernet franc from Hungary
From the Bordeaux varieties it’s cabernet franc which is the most accepted and famous in Hungary. And not just because Villány declared it as its main variety, although no other region focuses on it to this extent. I tried four recently, and I was really happy with only one of them, the Kiss Gábor; the others are not entirely convincing and some are also overpriced.Vylyan Macska Portugieser 2022, Villány, Hungary
Szentesi Kékszilváni 2019
Kékszilváni, which translates to blauer silvaner and is most likely the same variety indeed, can be tasted again from Hungarian vineyards. You guessed it right, the man who brought it back is József Szentesi.
Carbonic cabernet franc – the nouveau red Bujdosó Libás 2022
Very few red wines are made in Hungary with carbonic maceration, the only well-known one is Vylyan’s Bogyólé. I’m a fan of such wines (just like of Beaujolais crus, which is kinda geeky stuff), I don’t think that they are junk or suitable only for beginners. Not at all. So I’m happy to see the category growing, and here is another good one, a cabernet franc from the southern bank of Lake Balaton. Continue reading
Welschriesling done well – St. Donát Csopak Hegybor 2020
I bought this bottle at the cellar door, when visited this great Csopak producer in July. I’m still impressed, I reckon this is one of the best olaszrizling (welschriesling) out there. Continue reading
Supermarket wines – Aldi’s Csányi Villányi Shiraz 2021, a great value red
As a winelover you won’t often find a Hungarian red for 1100 HUF or 3 Euros which is worth drinking. But the Csányi Shiraz is an exception, it always delivers, and the 2021 vintage is no exception. Continue reading
Vylyan did it again: Macska Portugieser 2021
I thought it was probably just a vintage thing for Vylyan, they nailed it in 2020 and made a standout Portugieser, but the new vintage is just as lovely, if not even better.
Supermarket wines: Teleki Kékfrankos 2019, a nice one
Teleki is one of the most widely available entry level wine brand in Hungary, made in big quantities and available at every corner. Everyone knows it, this is what many regular wine consumers identify with quality wine and with villányi (Villány is kind of Hungary’s Barossa). I’m happy to say that it’s actually really nice! Continue reading