Portugieser is a controversial specialty of Villány – it’s kind of a local variety, but it’s mainly used for cheap wines and most of it is just to be avoided. But when it’s well made (and from properly grown grapes) like in the case of this one from Vylyan, then it becomes a really pleasant wine. So much so, that I went back to the shop to buy more, which does not happen too often, be it cheap or expensive wine.
The kind of wine when you first think it’s simple, but then the bottle gets emptied so easily that you realise how enjoyable it is. Proper varietal character, savoury rather than fruit-forward and just clean and free of oak. Light bodied but not dilute, with a winning combination of dry but smooth taste, the balance makes it so drinkable.
Wine name: Vylyan Macska 2020.
Rating: good, 85 points.
Price: around €5.
Stockists: widely available in Hungary, from supermarkets to online shops.