Top notch kadarka: Heimann & Fiai 2022

The Heimann family did it again. An outstanding kadarka, great successor to the amazing 2021 – and one of the most exciting Hungarian red wines out there.

Made with whole bunches and that gives it a Burgundy-like appeal, as well as silky texture and beautiful, crunchy tannins. It comes with some green, vegetal notes from the stems, though – I personally don’t mind it. Spicy, savoury aromatics with a lovely black pepper note, it suggests a cool climate origin, even though Szekszárd isn’t strictly such a region. Perfect, integrated acidity, the balance is spot on. A contemporary, exciting wine with real finesse. A must try for pinot and Northern Rhone syrah lovers. 90 points, great value at 4350 HUF (12 EUR). Stockist is Bortársaság, and BORSTORE BERLIN in Germany.