My friend András collected a bunch of 2014 reds from Bordeaux many years ago, when they were on the market. It was now time to open them he thought a few weeks ago, so we asked our little wine club if anyone was interested, and let me tell you that I rarely seen such interest from people – we were a bit too many at the end. I cannot understand why Bordeaux is unfashionable on the market as it’s still a favourite of real wine lovers. Me included. And these 2014s were really superb, I loved most of them. My favourites were the Ch. Phelan-Segur, the Ch. Gloria, the Ch. Figeac and the Ch. Chasse-Spleen, all rather medium-bodied and elegant.
Chateau Chasse-Spleen 2014, Moulis en Médoc
A classic Bordeaux – it’s all about elegance, balance and structure. Allspice and a touch of leather on the nose. So refined, not heavy, there is good acidity here and firm, but not marked tannins – it drinks so well. A great wine, I could drink it every day. 90 points, now – 2035. 13,5%.
Chateau La Tour Carnet 2014, Haut-Médoc
A bigger, more oaky, more modern wine. Some coffee notes, but it needs lots of air and then it unfolds, showing nice fruit notes. Still kind of young. Full-bodied with strong tannins. Great wine, 91 points.
Chateau Gloria 2014, Saint Julien
Cabernet character, clearly a left bank wine. Traditional and so inviting, shows graphite and a touch of leather, too. Linear on the palate, sinewy and bone dry, but not heavy as the alcohol is moderate. Massively tannic on the finish, which makes it pleasantly wild and untamed. Real Bordeaux charm here, I love it. Beautiful, authentic wine. 92 points. Drink now – 2037.
Chateau Malartic Lagraviére 2014, Pessac–Léognan
Mature already. A controlled, merlot opulence, some anise seed aromas. It’s smoother and softer than others in the lineup, less tight and tannic, but quite graceful. Surprisingly bright acidity. It’s delicious and drinks so well – I would not hold it any further. 90+ points.
Bock Cuvée 2015, Villány
A Bordeaux blend from Villány, and from a magnum bottle. Its age is more obvious, just like the oak (which is Hungarian I assume). Smokey and developed. Built differently than its French counterparts, less refined, acidity is higher, tannins are more drying. It’s more about power rather than elegance. I cannot say it’s not good, but not for me. 88 points.
Chateau Phélan Ségur 2014, Saint Estéphe
My wine of the night. Aristocratic, noble wine, it has real depth and it’s so elegant and sophisticated. Cabernet seems to dominate the aromatics, graphite, cedar box and plums are the main notes. It’s mouth-filling, super smooth, so velvety. A world class wine, 94 points.
Chateau Pape Clément 2014, Pessac-Léognan
Hello, brett! I haven’t experienced it in a Bordeaux for quite a while – it’s not overwhelming but hides some details. Big, opulent wine, it’s dense, concentrated but very tannic, too, to match the density. Quite ripe and there is a bit of sweetness on the palate. Lots of everything, but not as classic and elegant as others here. 92 points.
Chateau Figeac 2014, Saint-Émilion
Surprising amount of new oak. Some licorice on the nose, too, and a not unattractive leafiness. It’s the palate where the magic happens – I cannot believe how well drinkable it is. It has structure and firm tannins but it’s thirst quenching and goes down way too easily. The lowish ABV (13%) and the lively acidity clearly emphasise that. This is special, although more precise aromatics would make it even greater. 93 points.