Highly individual – the 2020 edition of Tihanyi Kék, the ancient Hungarian variety, from Szentesi József

It’s rare, it’s special – this is tihanyi kék, one of a bunch of almost extinct Hungarian varieties. I’m happy to review the 2020 here, after the 2018 and 2019. Even though I tasted this variety quite a few times, it blew me away again – it is that distinct.

Based on the pale garnet colour you would probably think it’s an old rose, but it’s a different animal for sure. Such an expressive nose, it’s full of pink peppercorn and saffron, I cannot imagine a more spicy aromatics. Some faded rose and red berry notes in the background. Light-bodied, airy, quite seamless  with its soft acidity and tannins. It drinks so easily and that unique flavour profile still impresses me glass after glass. 90 points, highly recommended, drink now – 2026.