If you ask me, the most dynamic red wine region of Hungary at the moment is Szekszárd. Ahead of others, they moved early from oaky, heavy reds made mostly from Bordeaux varieties to the indigenous kadarka and kékfrankos – and let’s add bikavér to the list, which is based on the former two.

Then there is the new concept of a single-vineyard bikavér, i.e. a traditional red blend coming from a specific site. Sebestyén Pince, one of the most well-known producers offers not less than three of them. I tried the Iván recently, and I can confirm: this is another red that focuses on elegance, instead of power.