Hungary has a long history of winemaking but it does not have many old vineyards – the 20th century wasn’t kind to us. But you can see a kadarka plot in these pictures (click on them to enlarge), planted in 1935.
kadarka
Standout kadarka: Bock 2019
Kadarka is an indigenous red grape variety to Hungary, even though it most likely originates in the Balkans. It produces a light red wine which tends to be fairly simple, but it’s quite distinguished and has some pinot-noir-like qualities and appeal. Continue reading
Lajvér Kadarka 2021, Szekszárd, Hungary
I liked what I tasted from Lajvér in the past, but this current release of their kadarka is a bit different. It’s from 2021 and similarly to most Hungarian wines of that vintage (BTW it was a poor one in many parts of Europe), I find it challenging rather than agreeable.
Supermarket wines: Eszterbauer Sógor Kadarka 2023
The Sógor kadarka is back on form! The 2023 is as good as the best vintage I have tasted yet, the 2019. It’s good news, regarding that the 2022 was a disappointment. It’s a bit early but so far it seems that 2023 yielded the most charming and delicious Hungarian wines in recent years. Even though it was a disaster for most wine producers…Top notch kadarka: Heimann & Fiai 2022
The Heimann family did it again. An outstanding kadarka, great successor to the amazing 2021 – and one of the most exciting Hungarian red wines out there.Supermarket wines – Eszterbauer Sógor Kadarka 2020
Kadarka is difficult to grow which makes it expensive to produce, and there isn’t much of it planted. So to see this wine for just above 3 euros on shelves is a shame – a sign of hard times wine growers face these days.
Exemplary Kadarka and great value: Eszterbauer Sógor 2019
I could not name a Kadarka from the last few years which was affordable and as good and well made as this entry level Eszterbauer. It even surpasses most of the expensive ones, as they are faulty to some extent, more often than not (main reason is that the variety is extremely susceptible to rot/Botrytis, harvesting healthy crop is rare, just ask Hungarian grape growers). Continue reading
Koch Frisch Kadarka 2018
Liked this Kadarka at a public tasting a few months ago, so wanted to try it at home. Continue reading
Something unusual – Toronyi Kadarka 2016
Late harvest Kadarka, made from Botrytized grapes is not uncommon in Hungary. But it’s not the reason the Toronyi 2016 from Szekszárd is so interesting. Continue reading
The new Szekszárd – Heimann Family Estate introduces their new lineup of red wines
At the end of January I visited Szekszárd on the Southern part of the country. Together with Villány, it is the region making the ripest, more full-bodied reds of the country, based on mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – but in a different style than Bordeaux. There is generally a slight move away from overoaked, big reds in recent years, but what I tasted at the region’s most famous producer Heimann is something groundbraking.