I quite like what the Bock crew brings out from Hungary’s native kadarka grape. With just a touch of oak this fragile variety becomes a bit more serious, yet does not lose its charm – being light and so drinkable.
kadarka
Barta Anna Kadarka 2021
The Mátra wine region is the neighbour of the more famous Eger in Northern Hungary and it’s somewhat similar in soils and climate. On the other hand it’s rather known for white wines, not reds, although long time ago it was mostly planted with kadarka, which is hard to find there these days. I know only two producers who bottle that variety, one of them is Anna Barta in Nagygombos.Szekretár Unfiltered Kadarka 2023
The more kadarka I taste the more I like the variety. It’s like a light pinot with a distinct spicy flavour – if you are into delicate red wines, it’s a must try. This one from Szekszárd producer Szekretár is definitely one to recommend.Old kadarka vines in Szekszárd at the Márkvárt Pince
Hungary has a long history of winemaking but it does not have many old vineyards – the 20th century wasn’t kind to us. But you can see a kadarka plot in these pictures (click on them to enlarge), planted in 1935.
Standout kadarka: Bock 2019
Kadarka is an indigenous red grape variety to Hungary, even though it most likely originates in the Balkans. It produces a light red wine which tends to be fairly simple, but it’s quite distinguished and has some pinot-noir-like qualities and appeal. Continue reading
Lajvér Kadarka 2021, Szekszárd, Hungary
I liked what I tasted from Lajvér in the past, but this current release of their kadarka is a bit different. It’s from 2021 and similarly to most Hungarian wines of that vintage (BTW it was a poor one in many parts of Europe), I find it challenging rather than agreeable.
Supermarket wines: Eszterbauer Sógor Kadarka 2023
The Sógor kadarka is back on form! The 2023 is as good as the best vintage I have tasted yet, the 2019. It’s good news, regarding that the 2022 was a disappointment. It’s a bit early but so far it seems that 2023 yielded the most charming and delicious Hungarian wines in recent years. Even though it was a disaster for most wine producers…Top notch kadarka: Heimann & Fiai 2022
The Heimann family did it again. An outstanding kadarka, great successor to the amazing 2021 – and one of the most exciting Hungarian red wines out there.Supermarket wines – Eszterbauer Sógor Kadarka 2020
Kadarka is difficult to grow which makes it expensive to produce, and there isn’t much of it planted. So to see this wine for just above 3 euros on shelves is a shame – a sign of hard times wine growers face these days.
Exemplary Kadarka and great value: Eszterbauer Sógor 2019
I could not name a Kadarka from the last few years which was affordable and as good and well made as this entry level Eszterbauer. It even surpasses most of the expensive ones, as they are faulty to some extent, more often than not (main reason is that the variety is extremely susceptible to rot/Botrytis, harvesting healthy crop is rare, just ask Hungarian grape growers). Continue reading