I should be proud, this Hungarian red received high marks from Decanter. I think they don’t rate wines on an absolute scale but in their context (similarly to Jancis Robinson), i.e. the 93p it received should be interpreted in the Hungarian red scene, not compared to the great wines of France etc. Even then it’s a big score. But I don’t see the appeal here.
I’m a fan of the ancient Hungarian grape varieties saved from extinction by wine hero József Szentesi, and I already covered some vintages of his Csókaszőlő here. Here we have a Csókaszőlő from another great producer called St. Andrea, from the northern region of Eger. A different style, but this is even better than the Szentesi versions I wrote up last time.
From the aged Hungarian whites I opened in recent months from my wine fridge, this one from St. Andrea proved to be the best. Eger is not a wine region known from its white wines so this came as a surprise.
I attended Borjour’s so called Bikavér Duel event in March, where the two wine regions eligible to use the name Bikavér showcased their wines. Eger impressed me a bit more than Szekszárd, especially the Böjt 2016. I bought a bottle the next week.