A stunning red wine from an ancient Hungarian variety – St. Andrea Kis Fekete 2017

I’m a fan of the ancient Hungarian grape varieties saved from extinction by wine hero József Szentesi, and I already covered some vintages of his Csókaszőlő here. Here we have a Csókaszőlő from another great producer called St. Andrea, from the northern region of Eger. A different style, but this is even better than the Szentesi versions I wrote up last time.

Quite pinot noir-like, perfumed, delicate, yet so intense and complex. A real cool climate wine, shows some green notes, as reds from Eger often do. Full of red currants, supported by coffee-like oak, think light roasted specialty coffee. Lively and full of flavor, it has real presence. Hardly medium bodied, supported by bright acidity and well-measured, ripe tannins. It’s refined, has tons of personality, really convincing – a special wine.

Rating: outstanding, a great wine. 91 points.
Price: ? (I guess it’s around 15€).
Stockist: cellar door only.
Tasted: June, 2021.
Drinking window: now-2023.
Source: gift from a frined.

 

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