Oak tales – St. Andrea Hangács Bikavér 2017

I should be proud, this Hungarian red received high marks from Decanter. I think they don’t rate wines on an absolute scale but in their context (similarly to Jancis Robinson), i.e. the 93p it received should be interpreted in the Hungarian red scene, not compared to the great wines of France etc. Even then it’s a big score. But I don’t see the appeal here.

Tasted the bottle for several days, I failed to like it unfortunately. Charred oak covers everything, it lacks character. You could tell in a blind tasting that it’s expensive, just based on its depth, but most likely you would be in trouble guessing its origin or the grape varieties. That polished, smooth texture is the highlight of the wine for me, but altogether it’s just an overoaked, international styled red (yes, such wines are still not extinct), lacking interest.

Rating: I would not drink this, but it’s not bad of course. Acceptable, 81 points.
Price: 5800 HUF or € 18 Euros in Germany.
Tasted: December, 2021.
Source: own purchase.

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