Great dry Tokaji: Péter Pince Kabar 2017

I wanted to open the 2019 vintage, but realised my mistake after the first sip – it was simply too ripe for that, I remember the 2017 being this big. But hey, what a wine!

Kabar is white grape, a cross between Hárslevelű and Bouvier, in existence since 1967, but only recognised in 2005. It’s the latest addition to the permitted varieties in Tokaj, and one that is capable of greatness in my opinion.

Péter Pince is one of the very few producers who bottles it as a single variety wine. It’s serious, seductive and quite distinct – resembles to Viognier in some ways. Aromatic and concentrated, loaded with notes of ananas and all sorts of ripe yellow fruits, mango and tangerine. Full bodied and luscious, lower in acidity but not lacking drive. A complex wine, one to impress, clearly for the holiday table.


Rating: outstanding, 90 points.
Price: € 12 Euros or £19.99.
Stockist: Novel Wines in UK, cellar door and winery webshop in Hungary (current vintage is 2019).
Good value: yes. Highly recommended, especially if you never had a kabar before.
Tasted: December, 2021.
Source: sample.
Alcohol content: 14%.
Drinking window: now – 2026.