Hungarian kadarka 10 years ago mostly meant a dull, 80 point wine, but producers really raised the game in recent years and pushed the variety to a new level – there are now many reaching the 90 point mark (I’m referring to the original, conservative and absolute 100 point scale, where serious wines start at 90, regardless of region or variety – today many critics use it differently, just think about the sometimes crazy Suckling scores). With their 2025 release Szekszárd producer Szekretár has now joined the top league.

What a beautiful kadarka, quite contemporary in its approach – it’s all about freshness and definition. Full of crunchy cherries and red berries, with a slight green, spicy note in the background. Delicate at only 11,5% but very intense, with great acidity and proper tannins – nails the balance between drinkability and structure. It could be Hungary’s answer to Gredos garnacha – a wine of purity, but with even more freshness. So pretty and delicious, a great wine, 90 points. Drink now, or during the next 4-5 years. Great value at 5000 HUF (14 EUR).