Hungary’s most planted red grape variety is kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch, lemberger, frankovka etc.) but it’s really unfashionable among local consumers and it’s just the minority of the producers who take it seriously. No wonder then that generally quality isn’t good. But this example from Béla és Bandi is a true exception, it sets the benchmark for affordable kékfrankos – both stylistically and qualitatively.
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Solid Hungarian rose – Konyári 2023
One of the well-known and widely distributed roses in Hungary, the Konyári is also one of the best of its class, avoiding the typical mistakes of its peers. No off-putting bubble gum aromas here. It’s also contender of the prettiest rose label in the country…
Hungarian rose: Sauska and Font
Here are two well-known rose wines that are widely available on the Hungarian market. The Font is on the cheap side, it’s about 4 EUR (sold by Lidl) and the Sauska is on the expensive side of Hungarian rose at 8 EUR.
Standout kadarka: Bock 2019
Kadarka is an indigenous red grape variety to Hungary, even though it most likely originates in the Balkans. It produces a light red wine which tends to be fairly simple, but it’s quite distinguished and has some pinot-noir-like qualities and appeal. Continue reading
Fun & delicious light red from Szekszárd: Sebestyén Indigó Zweigelt 2023
100% zweigelt from a well-known Szekszárd producer called Sebestyén, made in an easy drinking style. Spot on contemporary bistro red! Imagine a good beaujolais villages but with less tannins – you are now close!
Lajvér Kadarka 2021, Szekszárd, Hungary
I liked what I tasted from Lajvér in the past, but this current release of their kadarka is a bit different. It’s from 2021 and similarly to most Hungarian wines of that vintage (BTW it was a poor one in many parts of Europe), I find it challenging rather than agreeable.
Supermarket wines: Eszterbauer Sógor Kadarka 2023
The Sógor kadarka is back on form! The 2023 is as good as the best vintage I have tasted yet, the 2019. It’s good news, regarding that the 2022 was a disappointment. It’s a bit early but so far it seems that 2023 yielded the most charming and delicious Hungarian wines in recent years. Even though it was a disaster for most wine producers…Supermarket wines: two reds from Bock
Bock is one the most well-known names in Hungary, one that even not wine drinking people are familiar with. Big, expensive reds made them famous three decades ago, when Hungarian wine started basically from scratch (after the Communist rule, which ended in 1989), but they make lots of cheap(ish) wine for supermarkets.
Promising future: Bodri Malbec 2022
It’s early days for malbec in Hungary but based on this entry level red from Bodri, it might have a future here.
Solid Hungarian nouveau: Bodri Gúnár 2023
Such a fun wine that I went back to the store to buy more. Another nouveau done very well. Continue reading