I wanted to taste a wine from Mark Haisma since I read about him in Jamie Goode’s Wine Science book (in the chapter about using whole bunches in the ferment), but his wines are not easy to find. After a lot of search I found merchant Wijn op Dronk in the Netherlands, who delivers to Luxembourg where a friend of mine lives – it’s complicated, but at the end I received the bottle when he visited Budapest.
I put the wine into a red Burgundy lineup, and it was one of the favourites of my company – one that showcased why people love Burgundy (when it’s good).
There is just a little bit of funk here, hinting at low intervention/low SO2, just like the tertiary development – yet this has an absolutely classical Burgundy profile. Dried black cherries, a touch of leather and forest floor on the nose. It’s effortless yet it has concentration and depth of flavour, supported by nice acidity. A juicy, honest, very enjoyable wine at its peak. Drink now (to 2027). 90+ points, 29€.