Let’s call it grand cru dry Tokaji – Barta Öreg Király single vineyard Furmint, Mád, 2018

This is simply one of the greatest dry Tokaji Furmints I have ever tasted. I can recall only a few bottles of Szepsy and Demeter Zoltán from the last two decades, that amazed me this much. Those were made in a very different style, though, oaked and full-bodied.

A delicate, pure wine. Dry Furmints tend to be angular, but not this one. Restrained as spontaneously fermented whites used to be, but not shy. White peaches, grapes, citrus on the nose, accompanied by a hint of ginger and saffron. Fragile to taste, feels unforced, yet it fills every corner of the mouth. Crisp, wonderfully integrated acidity, it’s so seamless. With 9 grams RS and 7.2 g/l total acidity, it has an almost Mosel-like balance, yet it does not try to imitate Rieslings. Finesse and elegance from start to finish. Fine wine.

Rating: exceptional. Benchmark. 93 points. 
Price: 8000 HUF (around 24€).
Stockistsproducers webshop and various online retailers in Hungary.
Value: great.
Tasted: April, 2020.
Source: sample.
Drinking window: now-2025.

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