Three affordable ports

Vintage ports are crazy expensive these days, but it’s not hard to find value in other styles. Or is it just a result of a great vintage (2017)?

Tesco Finest LBV 2017

Not a concentrated port, but quite an elegant one. Tobacco notes, clearly developed. A core of prunes, some brandy and marzipan – a nice nose. Very smooth, almost mellow, integrates the alcohol better than most. Firm tannins. A bit simple for an LBV, but quite refined and enjoyable. Very good (87 points). Cheaper than most rubys, great value for 3000 HUF (8 EUR). Drink now.

Niepoort Ruby

Not your usual ruby, it tries to be different, but it’s not a great success. It’s notably more acidic than the norm, but that makes it a bit lean. It’s rustic, old school, earthy and dirty, lacks fruits. Can’t really integrate the alcohol, too, foursquare, lacks some charm. OK-ish (83 points). 4650 HUF or €12.

Royal Oporto LBV 2017

What a surprise! A widely distributed brand but it exceeded my expectations. Opulent, lively, still young. Modern, aromatic, sweet fruited, full of blackberries and blueberries, framed by discrete spiciness. Smooth, dense on the palate with real depth – this is a serious wine. So velvety and dense, quite seamless  as well. Outstanding (90 points). A steal for 6750 HUF or €20, highly recommended. Drink now-2028