Csókaszőlő or simply Csóka is an almost extinct old Hungarian variety, which was probably the dominant red grape here 500 years ago or so. For the XXth century, not much of it remained, but thanks to József Szentesi’s mission of saving the old varieties, it is now coming back slowly.
I might be overly enthusiastic about this wine, but I’m so happy to find a dry Furmint I really like, as I struggle to love the variety recently (sweet Tokaji is a clear exception, though).
After the unusual Pinot noir (reviewed here), an even more surprising Cabernet Franc from young talent Rácz Miklós Tamás. A Cabfranc without oak, from the home of over-oaked red wines? I’m sure fellow winemakers think Miklós is crazy, but in my opinion this wine is as close to terroir expression and elegance as you can get, from this variety in this region.
Based on that label you would never guess this is a serious wine. It is. It’s basically non-existent on the market, as it’s a small producer and they sell everything at cellar door – there is only one wine place where you can do that in Hungary, near lake Balaton, where tourist are plenty. It’s a shame, as this little producers makes some of Hungarys most unique and long living wines.
I spent a few hours at Gyöngyöspata yesterday, which is a tiny town 80 kilometers from Budapest to the North-East. This is the heart of the Mátra wine region, home to many of the new wave, young winemakers who organized the first Volcanic Wine Festival three years ago, to attract wine tourists to this otherwise sleepy village, and to promote the high potential, but still hardly recognized (as a serious player) Mátra region.
Malbec is a new thing in Hungary and there isn’t much of it planted, but to judge from this example, it has a bright future. This comes from the sunny southern part of the country, Szekszárd, which is famous for its opulent, big and ripe reds, and while I struggle to like the Cabernets and Merlots made there, I simply loved this Malbec.