I tasted this wine in a recent wine fair in Budapest, and it surprised me how powerful it was compared to most Kadarka wines. When I asked owner Toronyi György, he told me that it’s from a special, old clone which was selected at the Wine Research Institute of Pécs, and it produces grapes with thicker skin than the most common P9 clone.
Restrained, but lovely aromatics, rather in the dark fruit spectrum. Quite structured for a Kadarka, with a fuller mid palate and surprisingly powerful, powdery tannins on the finish. Those tannins and the savoury style makes it almost Nebbiolo-like, although this is less complex. Handles the 14.5% alcohol with ease, no sign of over-ripeness, acidity is good too (and it’s natural I bet). This is easily one of the better and most interesting Kadarkas out there, a lovely wine.