Supermarket wines: Chateau Teleki Villányi Franc 2017

Such a classic Hungarian red. Widely distributed in the country, you can find it in many supermarkets, and I remember tasting it from the early 2000s. But I’m quite sure it was already made in 1997 – that would not be long history in France, but it is in Hungary.

The price of this wine has hardly changed in the last 15 years, neither did the style. Oaky, ripe and full, but perhaps a bit less extracted than back in the old days, or the five years of ageing softened it for good. Developed but not old at all. Pencil shavings and lots of bay leaves on the nose, smells like a warm vintage Bordeaux and oozes cabernet franc, quite vegetal, in a good way. Full-bodied and soft, starts to mellow, but still firmly tannic. Generous rather than elegant, but it’s hard not to like its concentration. Very good, 87-88 points. Great value at 2800 HUF (7 Euros) at Auchan. Drink now or in the next few years, it will last for a while.