Complexity is off the charts. Plums in every imaginable manifestation (fresh and sour, baked in cookies, dried), some licorice and asphalt, bay leaves and leather – it reveals new layers at each sniff. But the magical thing is the Tuscan-like character. Full-bodied, and despite the 15.5% alcohol, not sweet or fat; in fact, it’s a bit angular, something that I don’t like: it feels acid-adjusted, a bit disjointed. I wish for less acid and more tannin; a better balance, a more natural taste – that could make this one of the greatest wines of the World.