Not your usual Spanish Garnacha – Cuevas de Arom, As Ladieras 2015, Campo de Borja

The Garnacha from Campo de Borja I was waiting for a long time… I’m a fan of the region, following it since 2012, and while some wines like Alto Moncayo impressed me in a way, there is one thing which prevents me from really liking these wines: heavy-handed winemaking. Too much oak and acid adjustment, to be more precise.

The As Ladieras from Cuevas de Arom is different. I have not tasted anything like this from Campo de Borja before. It’s honest, without any makeup or trickery, but it does not go too far with low intervention – it’s clean and faultless. I like that too.

It shows traditional Old-World Grenache character with raisin and strawberry notes, a touch of leather and cinnamon. A savoury, restrained style with noticeable development, some forest floor aromas suggesting full maturity in a few years. Bold and loosely knit palate, with some heat and powdery tannins on the finish – so typical Grenache structure, it’s almost like an old school Chateauneuf-du-Pape.

Rating: very good. 88 points.
Price: 21.5 €.
Stockists: Hispavinus.
Value: a bit expensive as it’s not really complex, but it’s interesting enough to try once.
Tasted: December, 2020.
Source: I bought the bottle.
Drinking window: now-2021.