New wave Priorat – Terroir Històric Negre 2018

Returning to the roots. This Grenache and Carignan blend is made with ancient winemaking techniques, and the result is clearly different from the oaky, heavy interpretations of Priorat most of us are familiar with.

In brief, whole bunches are lightly trodden, then the cement tanks are closed and no intervention happens until pressing – if I’m getting it right.

This old-new winemaking method must be popular in Spain these days, I tasted quite a few reds which showcased similar aromas and structure. And that’s my point – I’m not convinced by this approach, I think it has a special taste and it masks typicity. The most common feature is a distinguished type of reduction, similar to burnt matches – it appears here as well and completely hides the nose. The attack is smooth on the palate, but then coarse, drying tannins override everything, except the heat coming from alcohol. Not an enjoyable wine at all, hard and edgy, yet it’s quite interesting on the other hand. The intention to make a pure, honest wine is obvious and that makes it more likeable.

Rating: divisive, unpolished wine, 83 points. 
Price: 18,85.
Stockist: Decantalo and many others.
Tasted: April, 2020.
Value: poor.
Source: own purchase.

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