New wave Hungarian red: Vylyan Vörös Variáció 2021

Villány is probably still the most famous red wine region in Hungary. It’s not the most innovative, one could add, though. But here is a red which I would label as new wave, and it’s quite nice.

A blend of cabernet, csókaszőlő, kékfrankos and syrah. Raised in amphoras and tanks, so unoaked, and that results in purity not often seen in Villány reds. Ripe but not sweet dark fruits on the nose, it’s quite spicy and savoury, and have proper freshness while showing its warmer climate origin. Medium to full-bodied, has good acidity and drive. Perfectly clean, no funk here, but it feels honest and real. The only detail out of place is tannin, it’s a bit overt, making the finish a bit raw (should work better with food). Such an interesting wine, I like it a lot. 88 points, available only in the Vylyan webshop.