Laposa Kéknyelű 2017, Badacsony, Hungary

Best after opening. Restrained in style, quite elegant and easy to drink. Slightly aromatic, reflecting the variety, but overall it’s neutral. The best part comes when you take a sip – there is density here, a slightly oily texture, without heaviness. Add to that a salty taste and integrated acidity, and you have a quite special mouthfeel – it’s a textural white wine. More about character than complexity, but still pretty nice.

Rating: good to very good, 87 points.
Price: around 13 Euros (find at Bortársaság).
Value: OK. Little production so no surprise that it’s not cheap.
Drinking window: best to drink now, or before 2021.