Irsai Olivér is a local grape of Hungary, a cross made in 1930. It has a bad reputation amongst wine aficionados as a dull, cheap, mass produced wine. An equivalent of low priced Pinot Grigio perhaps – except that it’s a highly aromatic, Muscat-like variety. And when made well, it can be quite pretty, like the most well-known version, made near Budapest by Nyakas.
Fragrant and so vivid. Bursting with aromas like unripe Muscat grapes, celery and lemongrass, and lovely crisp acidity gives a lift on the palate. Delicate and so refreshing and delicious, it goes down dangerously easily. Tastes dry and alcohol is just 11.5%. It’s even nuanced with some sophistication.
Rating: a lovely quaffer, 85 points; in it’s class: 8-9/10.
Price: 5€.
Stockist: widely available in Hungary.
Value: good, it’s recommended.
Tasted: April, 2020.
Source: own purchase.
Drinking window: now.
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