Returning to the roots. This Grenache and Carignan blend is made with ancient winemaking techniques, and the result is clearly different from the oaky, heavy interpretations of Priorat most of us are familiar with.
Turán is a Hungarian cross, a teinturier grape variety (whose flesh is red, or rather inky purple) with poor reputation. It ripens early, has a muscat-like aroma but it’s very tannic and slightly bitter to taste. A blending component to boost color, not much else – at least in most winemakers’ eye.
A small batch Syrah from one of Szekszárd’s top producers, Heimann. The new generation – jr. Zoltán Heimann – is making more and more impact on the winery style and I’m sure this wine reflects his ideas.
This is simply one of the greatest dry Tokaji Furmints I have ever tasted. I can recall only a few bottles of Szepsy and Demeter Zoltán from the last two decades, that amazed me this much. Those were made in a very different style, though, oaked and full-bodied.
Am I alone finding the Northern Rhone reds riper and riper recently? Like this Esquisse 2017 from Domaine Des Hauts Chassis. In my memories the estate’s wines were occasionally a bit green 10-12 years ago, and this represents the other end of the spectrum.
I could not name a more exciting Hungarian red wine than Szentesi’s Tihanyi Kék. It’s even more individual than his Csókaszőlő, though both are highlights for me from his range of wines, in every vintage.