Hungary’s most planted red grape variety is kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch, lemberger, frankovka etc.) but it’s really unfashionable among local consumers and it’s just the minority of the producers who take it seriously. No wonder then that generally quality isn’t good. But this example from Béla és Bandi is a true exception, it sets the benchmark for affordable kékfrankos – both stylistically and qualitatively.
kékfrankos
Supermarket wines: Eszterbauer Tanyamacska Kékfrankos 2021
I liked the 2019 vintage of Tanyamacska and have been following the wine since that release. The 2020 was a little step back but still good, and the current 2021 is unfortunately disappointing. I must add that in my view 2021 is a poor vintage throughout Hungary – most wines are sharp and sour to taste, lacking balance and drinkability.
Supermarket wines: two reds from Bock
Bock is one the most well-known names in Hungary, one that even not wine drinking people are familiar with. Big, expensive reds made them famous three decades ago, when Hungarian wine started basically from scratch (after the Communist rule, which ended in 1989), but they make lots of cheap(ish) wine for supermarkets.
Standout kékfrankos rose: Eger Cottage 2022 by Bukolyi Marcell
100% kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch) rose is often somewhat one dimensional and rustic (angular, sharp), but not this one. What a pleasant surprise!
Fun Villány red: Kiss Gábor Rouge 364 2022
Kiss Gábor is a well-known Villány producer, but he operates on a lesser scale then big names like Gere or Bock. What I tasted from him in the past did not make me a fan, but his 2022 reds are a completely different story. I liked his cabernet franc quite a lot so I bought a bottle of his entry level Rouge 364, and it’s actually almost as good its pricier brother.Pretty Austrian blaufrankisch: Silvia Heinrich 2021
My pick from the Silvia Heinrich range is the entry level blaufrankisch. The more expensive ones are a bit too oaky for me (my common complain about Burgenland reds), but this is lovely.
Burgenland Blaufrankisch with style: Prieler Johanneshöhe 2019
Besides Dorli Muhr, we also visited another highly regarded Austrian producer a month ago, Weingut Prieler. It was another great experience, I was amazed by the hospitality and kindness of our host, Georg Prieler. Also, the wines looked really good at the winery, and I can say that I found their Johanneshöhe just as convincing when opened a bottle at home.A visit in photos: Dorli Muhr, a leading blaufrankisch producer in Carnuntum
A wine lover’s dream. This is how wines are presented at Weingut Dorli Muhr (picture above). So that you can explore and compare the differences of all the site-specific blaufrankisch they make.
New wave Hungarian red: Vylyan Vörös Variáció 2021
Villány is probably still the most famous red wine region in Hungary. It’s not the most innovative, one could add, though. But here is a red which I would label as new wave, and it’s quite nice.
Outstanding blaufrankisch: Kollwentz Leithakalk 2017
An Austrian red to impress. Continue reading