Irsai Olivér is a local grape of Hungary, a cross made in 1930. It has a bad reputation amongst wine aficionados as a dull, cheap, mass produced wine. An equivalent of low priced Pinot Grigio perhaps – except that it’s a highly aromatic, Muscat-like variety. And when made well, it can be quite pretty, like the most well-known version, made near Budapest by Nyakas.