The winner of the Kékfrankos blind tasting mentioned here. Continue reading
hungarian
Debut vintage: Dubicz Sárhegy Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch) 2018
One of my favorite wines from our last Kékfrankos blind tasting, held just before the latest COVID restrictions. Admittedly it was not a strong line-up, though. Continue reading
So cheap, will it be drinkable? Ostoros Egri Kékfrankos 2019
Just a bit above 1 Euro it’s by far the cheapest wine I bought in the last 10-15 years, and it’s not the worst. Actually it’s not bad at all, I kinda like it.
A Hungarian white wine that can age – St. Andrea Örökké 2013
From the aged Hungarian whites I opened in recent months from my wine fridge, this one from St. Andrea proved to be the best. Eger is not a wine region known from its white wines so this came as a surprise.
Pretty Hungarian Müller-Thurgau: Kősziklás 2019
Kősziklás is one of the best producers of cheap, crisp white wines in Hungary,
their wines often represents great value. Just like this Müller-Thurgau, which is even better than their Királyleányka.
Changing the game – ancient varieties to return in Hungary
The first bunches of an almost extinct Hungarian grape variety called Laska, in the new vineyard of András Kovács and Kinga Tóth, in the Mátra region. It was brought back to life by the hero of local grapes, József Szentesi, who is the only one making wine from it currently. The cuttings were taken from his vineyard in Nadap (a virtually unknown wine region, which is one of the most unique terroir in Hungary) and produced just a tiny amount of bunches this year. Watch this space, some exciting wines to be emerged from this address in the coming years!
Serious dry Muscat from Mátra, Hungary: Centurio Fáy-Domb Sárgamuskotály 2019
There is quite a lot of Muscat planted in Hungary and besides some very cheap, sweet(ened) versions it’s actually used for dry wines – that’s perhaps not the most common path for Muscat growing countries. And these dry versions can be good, very good.
Something unusual – Csernyik Turán 2018, an aromatic and tannic red from Mátra, Hungary
Turán is a Hungarian cross, a teinturier grape variety (whose flesh is red, or rather inky purple) with poor reputation. It ripens early, has a muscat-like aroma but it’s very tannic and slightly bitter to taste. A blending component to boost color, not much else – at least in most winemakers’ eye.
New wave Hungarian Syrah – Heimann Válogatás 2017
A small batch Syrah from one of Szekszárd’s top producers, Heimann. The new generation – jr. Zoltán Heimann – is making more and more impact on the winery style and I’m sure this wine reflects his ideas.
Let’s call it grand cru dry Tokaji – Barta Öreg Király single vineyard Furmint, Mád, 2018
This is simply one of the greatest dry Tokaji Furmints I have ever tasted. I can recall only a few bottles of Szepsy and Demeter Zoltán from the last two decades, that amazed me this much. Those were made in a very different style, though, oaked and full-bodied.