Hungary’s most planted red grape variety is kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch, lemberger, frankovka etc.) but it’s really unfashionable among local consumers and it’s just the minority of the producers who take it seriously. No wonder then that generally quality isn’t good. But this example from Béla és Bandi is a true exception, it sets the benchmark for affordable kékfrankos – both stylistically and qualitatively.
blaufrankisch
Supermarket wines: two reds from Bock
Bock is one the most well-known names in Hungary, one that even not wine drinking people are familiar with. Big, expensive reds made them famous three decades ago, when Hungarian wine started basically from scratch (after the Communist rule, which ended in 1989), but they make lots of cheap(ish) wine for supermarkets.
Standout kékfrankos rose: Eger Cottage 2022 by Bukolyi Marcell
100% kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch) rose is often somewhat one dimensional and rustic (angular, sharp), but not this one. What a pleasant surprise!
Pretty Austrian blaufrankisch: Silvia Heinrich 2021
My pick from the Silvia Heinrich range is the entry level blaufrankisch. The more expensive ones are a bit too oaky for me (my common complain about Burgenland reds), but this is lovely.
Dorli Muhr Carnuntum 2019
Before our visit to the winery this spring I only tasted a few wines from Dorli Muhr, one of the top blaufrankisch producers of Austria. They were quite different from other Austrian reds and it all made sense when we met her in the cellar. Go visit wine producers! Continue reading
Burgenland Blaufrankisch with style: Prieler Johanneshöhe 2019
Besides Dorli Muhr, we also visited another highly regarded Austrian producer a month ago, Weingut Prieler. It was another great experience, I was amazed by the hospitality and kindness of our host, Georg Prieler. Also, the wines looked really good at the winery, and I can say that I found their Johanneshöhe just as convincing when opened a bottle at home.A visit in photos: Dorli Muhr, a leading blaufrankisch producer in Carnuntum
A wine lover’s dream. This is how wines are presented at Weingut Dorli Muhr (picture above). So that you can explore and compare the differences of all the site-specific blaufrankisch they make.
Outstanding blaufrankisch: Kollwentz Leithakalk 2017
An Austrian red to impress. Continue reading
Standout kékfrankos: Takler Szenta-Hegyi 2018
Takler, one of Hungary’s biggest name in red wines has been improving in recent years. Less oak, more freshness and definition. I like the results. Continue reading
Nouveau time: Vylyan Bogyólé 2020
The most well-known Hungarian nouveau style red. I cannot remember a poor release, and the 2022 again delivers.