Blindtasting top notch Austrian blaufrankisch wines

I collected a bunch of high-end blaufrankisch bottles in the last two years and earlier this year I was finally able to gather my friends (wine merchants, wine makers) to blindtaste this impressive line-up. The Prieler winery stole the show for me, in my view they are a benchmark when it comes to this variety. Moric is a quite different story – he is a pioneer but I must say it’s hard to like the wine style. By the way, talking about style, it’s so varied from producer to producer, from natural to New World-like, you really have to look for the estate first and foremost. I took my notes after the re-tasting.

Silvia Heinrich V-max 2018

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High-end bull’s blood: St. Andrea Merengő 2021

With a bunch of friends I took a look at a few Hungarian flagship reds in December. These all have some history, in some cases stretching over two decades. They are very well-known (in Hungary) and widely distributed; they are partly or entirely blends of Bordeaux varieties (not surprisingly, as they were created in the late 90s or in the 2000s, inspired by international cult reds).

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Outstanding blaufrankisch: Dorli Muhr Prellenkirchen Samt&Seide 2021

Photo taken on the Radovin portfolio tasting

I’m not a fan of the 2021 vintage in Hungary, but interestingly it’s a completely different story for Dorli Muhr, just outside the country border. Its her best so far I was told, and when she presented a mini-vertical of her Prellenkirchen Samt&Seide a year ago in Budapest, it was indeed the 2021 which impressed me the most. Continue reading

Exemplary entry level kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch): Béla és Bandi 2023

Hungary’s most planted red grape variety is kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch, lemberger, frankovka etc.) but it’s really unfashionable among local consumers and it’s just the minority of the producers who take it seriously. No wonder then that generally quality isn’t good. But this example from Béla és Bandi is a true exception, it sets the benchmark for affordable kékfrankos – both stylistically and qualitatively.

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