St. Andrea Nagykadarka 2016

An attempt to create a serious wine from Kadarka. The price is matching that intent too, at 20,000 Forints (approx. 65 Euros) this must be the most expensive Kadarka wine ever made. You might raise an eyebrow when reading about the approach, though: late harvesting of grapes, including Botrytised bunches too. No surprise then that the result has an alcohol level of 16%.

Like an overdone Australian red: rum and marzipan notes, overwhelming intensity, heat on the finish. An assault of the senses. High acidity does not help the balance but lends it a sharpness, the feeling of added tartaric. The Botrytis, on the other hand, is handled quite well, it certainly tastes like “noble rot”, well integrated into the aromas. It’s an extreme style of Kadarka, made with skill, but in the end, it’s still so raw. An untamed beast, kind of a caricature of a wine, but its richness is remarkable. Do not open it yet, time might help smoothen it.

Rating: a very unusual wine, hard to rate. I’m 86 points on this.
Price: approx. 65 Euros at Bortársaság.
Value: a small batch wine which is not easy to produce often, but still, it’s overpriced.
Drinking window: who knows? Not yet ready, try in 2021.