There are only a few successful Pinot Noirs in the Carpathian Basin, and this is one of them. It’s borderline unripe, but it has finesse and delicacy which you expect from a good example of the variety. It’s a lovely wine that draws you in. The oak is not yet integrated, but somehow fits in. Some green, dill-like notes, this really comes from a cool climate. Detailed, balanced, almost in a Burgundian way, though it’s a bit less structured – but not light. Smooth tannins. Wait at least half a year, let it come together. Continue reading →

Tasting blind I would probably guess a Pinot Noir from South Africa. Burnt rubber and New World sweetness. The weight is Kadarka-like (i.e. the wine is light-bodied), if nothing else. Well made but a bit too sweet and showy, I’m afraid it soon becomes boring. Continue reading →

Heimann, the leading estate of Szekszárd was one of the first Hungarian producers who invested in the revival of Kadarka. That translates to finding better clones and the ideal way of vinification. This is an experimental batch. Continue reading →

Grál Borpince (borpince means winery in Hungarian) is a relatively new, promising producer from the Tolnai wine region, which borders it’s more famous neighbor Szekszárd from the north. They have just a few hectares of grapes and the aim is artisanal wine production. The wines are often very good, but I was less happy with these two vintages of the Kadarka. Continue reading →

Proper Morgon, dark and structured for a Beaujolais. Ripe, but cool climate is evident. Black cherries and a bit of that playful hibiscus and bubble gum action, just to complete typicity. Alcohol is lowish yet it’s almost full-bodied, structured and tannic – a nice example of the classic French red wine style, it’s so Old World. I wish for a bit more intensity, more aromas on the palate, though. Continue reading →

What a surprise! I admit I know nothing about the winemaking history of Luxembourg. I was just not prepared for this, it’s so damn good that’s hard to believe. Continue reading →

An attempt to create a serious wine from Kadarka. The price is matching that intent too, at 20,000 Forints (approx. 65 Euros) this must be the most expensive Kadarka wine ever made. You might raise an eyebrow when reading about the approach, though: late harvesting of grapes, including Botrytised bunches too. No surprise then that the result has an alcohol level of 16%. Continue reading →

How to describe Kadarka? For us Hungarians, it’s a bit like what Cinsault is to South Africans – a pale red wine with serious history, seeing a revival in recent years. We don’t know why it was so widely planted and popular, growing it is just as challenging as making solid wine from it. I have tasted a few dozens recently, and they were generally massively disappointing. The Tüske was a highlight among them, being free of flaws and a quite good representation of grape. Continue reading →

Fantastic little wine. Do a search, and the words ‘quaffable’, ‘light’ and ‘simple’ will come up frequently – I just disagree. Yes, it’s so drinkable, but it has complexity and structure. More importantly, it’s savory, it’s exciting, draws you in. One of the few South African reds that fully convinced me ever, perhaps it’s my favorite.

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This must be one of the finest budget friendly Hungarian Kékfrankos (a.k.a. Blaufrankisch) wines ever made. Continue reading →