Outstanding blaufrankisch: Kollwentz Leithakalk 2017

An Austrian red to impress.

Pretty much Bordeaux in style. In a recent blind tasting of the variety this looked like a cabernet. Perhaps not what I expect from a blaufrankisch, but it’s great at it. Quite extracted, but polished and elegant as well. Dark on the nose with expensive oak notes, allspice and nutmeg well integrated. Dense and full-bodied, the concentration is top shelf, just as the level of refinement. A serious wine built to last, as tannic as many Bordeaux, which is at least surprising – in a way this tastes like a French wine (which is rarely a bad thing). Outstanding, 90 points. Price is around €24, great value; stockist are Weinshop24, Interspar and many more in Austria.