The Burgundies I can afford to buy have an amazing common feature: despite climate change and hot vintages, they still weigh in at a mere 12,5-13,5% ABV. That’s the perfect alcohol content for most wines yet it’s anything but common in other regions these days. And it’s part of the appeal here.

Lovely traditional style. Savoury, restrained, not fruity. It isn’t complex but has class. Dark aromas with a slightly smoky, earthy tone, some black cherries in the background. Cool climate character. Hardly medium-bodied and bone dry as Burgundy should be. Great balance with gently firm tannins, this has enough structure and grip but it’s absolutely approachable already. I like it a lot. 88 points, drink now-2029. It was selling for 19,03 € (vinatis.com) before stock run out, which is decent for a good Burgundy nowadays.