A frequent topic about Southern Rhone reds is ageability. I’m with those who say do not age them. At all. There are exceptions, of course, but the majority is at their best when released. Ripe, round and seductive, they don’t need years to soften; they only lose freshness. Continue reading
Marengo Nebbiolo d’Alba 2019
You probably don’t buy a nebbiolo if you are not prepared for drying tannins. It’s part of the game and I usually like it, but in this case I struggled a bit.
Szekretár Unfiltered Kadarka 2023
The more kadarka I taste the more I like the variety. It’s like a light pinot with a distinct spicy flavour – if you are into delicate red wines, it’s a must try. This one from Szekszárd producer Szekretár is definitely one to recommend.Supermarket wines: Gran Bajoz, Toro Vinas Viejas 2021 from Lidl
Made by Pagos del Rey, this is a bold red that might appeal to many. Not my preferred style, but I enjoyed a few glasses.
Telmo Rodriguez Gaba Mencia 2020
A nice example of mencia. I expect a wine made by Telmo Rodriguez to be pure and this one does not disappoint. Highly recommended!
Nouveau time: Vylyan Bogyólé 2024
Hungary’s most well-known nouveau red wine is back on form. This 2024 vintage of Bogyólé is one the best releases ever.Shiraz icon: Wendouree 2021 from Clare Valley, Australia
Being able to taste a Wendouree in Central Europe feels special When my Aussie connection, Attila Halász came to Budapest in the summer, he brought two bottles with him actually – what a treat it was. Especially as one was the shiraz, the most admired wine of this cult producer.
Exemplary entry level kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch): Béla és Bandi 2023
Hungary’s most planted red grape variety is kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch, lemberger, frankovka etc.) but it’s really unfashionable among local consumers and it’s just the minority of the producers who take it seriously. No wonder then that generally quality isn’t good. But this example from Béla és Bandi is a true exception, it sets the benchmark for affordable kékfrankos – both stylistically and qualitatively.
Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny 2021
This cabernet franc can be very good in some vintages – like the 2017. But the 2021 is just not good. I had four bottles, all were disappointing. It’s not a good vintage and the wine reflects that.
Affordable Burgundy: Domaine Des Chambris Hauts Cotes de Nuits 2022
The Burgundies I can afford to buy have an amazing common feature: despite climate change and hot vintages, they still weigh in at a mere 12,5-13,5% ABV. That’s the perfect alcohol content for most wines yet it’s anything but common in other regions these days. And it’s part of the appeal here.