The wine bar scene in Budapest seems to grow every year, and thankfully most of them follow a different approach. The one titled “Carpe Diem Borbár” (borbár means wine bar in Hungarian) is one of the most specialized bars: no advertisement, no cheap or commonly available wines on the list. There are mostly carefully selected French and German wines on offer, and just a few Hungarians: small batches from hardly known, but serious producers. The bar is close to the Parliament in the city center, but actually, it’s hidden in a quiet little street.
You can choose wines here from the current menu if you just drop by, but every few weeks there is a special event for wines lovers. Sometimes a local winemaker presents his or her wines, other times it’s about a theme – a lineup of wines from a specific region, or perhaps from the same variety. In case of the latter, the owner, Ferenc Tar orders the wines from abroad, so they are not available locally to buy. That’s a great opportunity to taste wines we don’t have access to in Hungary. I joined a recent event which featured wines from the South of France, including producers I have never heard of. Most of them really impressed me.
Carpe Diem Borbár’s contact: https://www.facebook.com/carpediemborbar/
Domaine de Saint Cosme Le Deux Albions Blanc 2017
Such freshness in a warm climate white. It’s elegant and wonderfully clean too. Lovely citrus and peach aromas. The texture reflects the sunny origin, though, it’s oily, thick with some heat on the finish. Forget if you look for a crisp, acid-driven white, but it’s a nice wine. 86
Domaine des Ardoisières “Quartz” Blanc 2016
This reminds to good Champagne in many ways. Quite an oxidative style, with brioche, walnut and some bruised apple notes on the nose, but it’s so elegant. Completely dry, tight, pleasantly phenolic on the finish. You also get some oak on the palate, but it’s so effortless and refined. Real class here. 90
Tissot Arbois Trousseau “Amphore” Sans Soufre 2017
Please use sulphur. Thank you. Tastes a bit like grape juice, it’s rustic and heavily marked by Brett and that iodine and blood aroma which is typical to low sulphur red wines. Variety, the fruit, the real character of the wine is hidden. I don’t like this wine, but it’s not undrinkable. You need to be open for the style, though. 80
Hortus Pic Saint Loup “Grande Cuvée” 2016
North meets South. It’s not a black pepper scented Cote-Rotie but neither it is Shiraz. Old World charm combined with New World precision and freshness. Blueberries, plums and some red berries, I could call it a fruit bomb, if it wouldn’t be so elegant. Some cinnamon to spice up things. So transparent, no oak in sight, yet it has depth and complexity. Full-bodied but not heavy. Outstanding aftertaste. Great, exciting wine. 92
Anne Gros & Tollot Minervois “Les Carretals” 2016
Completely black color, with a bright purple edge – great start. The nose is black too, in a ripe yet fresh fashion, showing a bit of Carignan’s wild character. Coiled power – it’s concentrated rather than complex at the moment, waiting to open. Full on the palate, but there is an unusual, Burgundy-like tightness here. True to its type but elegant at the same time. Fascinatig and refined Languedoc red with lots of personality. 91
Domaine des Ardoisières Améthyste 2016
What a wine! Almost like a Cote-Rotie. Black peppers on the nose, it’s definitely a cool climate wine. A bit unripe, a bit funky, but the complexity is outstanding. Did they use carbonic maceration? Some bubble gum action makes it even more lively. Bone dry with low alcohol. Bright with serious intensity of flavors. A bit coarse tannins on the finish. It’s a bit edgy, but lovely and so interesting. Great wine. 91
Chateau de Saint Cosme Le Deux Albion red 2015
The house style is evident. Tastes like their estate Gigondas, but also very Syrah-ish. Extraordinary depth for a plain Cotes du Rhone. Ripe and opulent, with bacon and baked black currant notes. A bit of tomato scented specialty coffee and blood, and some herb notes. Full on the palate, really fills the mouth. So rich and decadent, but then quite tannic on the finish. A bit rough at this stage, but still amazing. Not for the faint-hearted. 91
Domaine Gauby Cote Roussillon Vieilles Vignes Rouge 2010
I would guess an Italian red, if tasted this blind. Mature, though not mellowed, it’s still admirably dense. Very tannic. Dry taste, no sweetness, and it’s not overblown, but very oaky. Lots of Brett on the nose, you have to be tolerant if you want to enjoy the wine. Still, it’s kind of noble, almost Brunello-like. 89
Mas de Daumas Gassac Rouge 2004
It could not be more traditional than this. Restrained, unshowy, lightly extracted, the alcohol also feels moderate. It’s mature but not old, holds quite well. Elegant and Cabernet-spiced (paprika), but not Bordeaux-like. Almost light, actually lacks real complexity, but so polished, the class is obvious. 90