Mourvedre is one of my favorite grapes, and I have fond memories of the wine Borie de Maurel made from it in 2010. That was one of the best examples I tried outside Bandol. Current vintage seems to be the 2015, which I was able to order from an online shop (which delivers to Hungary, but many merchants in France do these days), and I just added one of their less expensive cuvées as well.

Domaine Borie de Maurel La Féline 2016, Minvervois La Liviniere, Languedoc, France

A 70-20-10% blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan, La Feline is a textbook Syrah-based Languedoc red. Dark, ripe and sweetly fruited (blueberries); it’s hearty, generous and full bodied. It’s modern, as far as cleanness and fruit intensity go, but traditional when you look at the pleasantly rough texture with marked tannins and the dry taste. A good, powerful red wine. 87 points, OK value at 12.85 EUR (bought at www.expressions-fermieres.com)

Domaine Borie de Maurel Maxime 2015, Minvervois La Liviniere, Languedoc, France

100% Mourvedre. Serious but not faultless – I wonder if it’s only my bottle. Closed at opening, but air does not help much, just reveals that something is not OK here. Oxidized, perhaps? Take a sip: the depth is amazing. Luxurious texture, admirable density and powerful, but tamed tannins. What a great wine it could be, without the flaw. This bottle is merely acceptable (75 points), though – disappointing for 19.30 EUR (www.expressions-fermieres.com).