I quite like what the Bock crew brings out from Hungary’s native kadarka grape. With just a touch of oak this fragile variety becomes a bit more serious, yet does not lose its charm – being light and so drinkable.

An intoxicating nose: it’s so intense and charming. There is an Italian vibe to it thanks to the dried cherry and leather aromas, the warm climate feel. A nod towards Langhe nebbiolo, perhaps, however it’s very different on the palate: it’s airy, light and silky, just true to the variety. Virtually tannin-free, and I miss the grip from the finish, that would elevate it to a next level. But it’s already beautiful, more complex than 95% of the kadarkas out there.  If you love feminine Burgundy, you must try this. 90 points. 13%. Drink now – 2026.