Before raving again about a Szentesi wine, I should probably mention that I’m not always satisfied with his wines. I find quite a few which is not faultless, and I attribute that to his non-interventionist philosophy. But the successful ones are just so exciting… as is the Fekete Muskotály.
Fekete Muskotály means Black Muscat. Szentesi believes this is an old Hungarian variety, not identical to Hamburg Muscat or other similar grapes. The wine is very pale colored with a brick-like hue, and just unmistakably muscaty on the nose: aromatic, full of lychee and so intense. On the palate, it starts like a white wine, but turns into a proper red with great tannins in the finish. There is something Nebbiolo-like about the structure what I really like. Not a complex wine but so special, with lots of personality – I have never tasted anything like this. And it’s unforced, juicy, drinks so well. 13,5%.
Rating: as an experience: 10/10. Very good, 88 points.
Price: around 6500 HUF (18€).
Stockist: cellar door, Artizan (the 2018 run out already).
Tasted: June, 2020.
Value: a few 100 bottles made in the entire World. It’s worth trying.
Drinking window: drink now.
Source: own purchase.