Hitting 16%, this Chateauneuf du Pape has the highest alcohol in this series. La Centenaire is made entirely from Grenache, which is supposed to handle heat far better than Syrah for example, but to see such alcohol content on the label is not just a bit worrying. Yet this was the winner of the trio (the other two are the El Telar Monastrell and Maccone Primitivo), when it comes to handling alcohol.
In a dumb phase – just like many 2016 Southern-Rhone reds after the primary fruits are gone. It needs aeration to open up, and then what you get is the essence of Rhone Grenache. Opulent, ripe, with the most typical black strawberry notes. Ouzo and rosemary add nuances. It’s just amazing how lively this is, despite the ripeness (16%!), no raisins in sight. In the mouth it combines smoothness with a serious structure. Just a bit of sweetness, which does not seem out of place, perhaps because it’s balanced by lovely, firm tannins. There is some alcoholic heat but it does not mask the finish. A serious, great wine.
Rating: outstanding, even in this closed down state. 91 points.
Price: 35 €.
Stockist: Avenue des Vins.
Value: very good.
Tasted: December, 2019.
Source: I bought the bottle.
Drinking window: from early 2021 to 2025.
This is a wonderful winery. And yes, some CdPs handle otherwise hair-raising levels of alcohol with incredible ease. God knows why.