Hungarian dry furmint can be challenging sometimes. We got a reminder of that in November, when our small wine club sat together to open a bunch of white wines (I only collected the furmints here). The most expensive turned out to be the least loved, and sadly no one was even surprised…

Somlói Vándor Öregtőkék Furmint 2023

Öregtőkék means old vines and this comes from the tiny Somló appellation. Oaky richness, ripe, golden fruits, quite generous on the nose. It’s a bit wild, with some durian-like notes and also surprisingly developed. It’s the palate where it comes together, the texture is something special here. Lovely acidity, this is really juicy. There is depth to the flavor and it’s so delicious. It’s a Somló wine rather than a furmint, quite distinctive. 89 points. Drink now. 6500 HUF (€16).

 

Szepsy Úrágya 63 Furmint 2020

Szepsy is the biggest name in Tokaj, and while their sweet wines are at the top of the game, I cannot say the same about the dry furmints. It’s not just me actually, I don’t even know a single wine connoisseur friend who likes them.

This is the same story: it tastes like expensive wine, it’s concentrated but it’s not appealing. It’s austere, neutral, oaky, lacks fruit and charm. Quite representative of dry Szepsy style, unfortunately. Not for me, I would rather drink a simple but pleasant quaffer. 82 points. Not a cheap wine, price is 20 000 HUF (€50).

 

Balassa Szt. Tamás Furmint 2018 (Tokaj)

A completely different story than the Szepsy. This is an opulent, bold wine full of ripe yellow fruits. Quite exotic, there is even some raspberry on the nose (unusual for a white wine) and quince, which can often be found in Tokaji. Full-bodied and so concentrated, lots of everything here. High acidity, there is even some phenolic grip. A bit foursquare for my taste and it’s not elegant, but its richness is almost out of this world. 90-91 points. Retail price was around 15 000 HUF (€39).

 

Kikelet Furmint 2017 (Tokaj)

The estate bottling of Kikelet, it is the most affordable of their range and at slightly over 6 years of age it is singing. Showcases what’s missing from the Szepsy: prettiness and harmony. A bit of development here, it blossomed into an intense, beautiful expression of dry Tokaji. Apple tea, pear and creamy notes define the nose. It’s supple, the high acidity is now integrated, it’s so enjoyable. A charming wine, my favourite of the lineup. 90 points. Retail price was about 4000 HUF or €12.