Hungary’s most planted red grape variety is kékfrankos (a.k.a. blaufrankisch, lemberger, frankovka etc.) but it’s really unfashionable among local consumers and it’s just the minority of the producers who take it seriously. No wonder then that generally quality isn’t good. But this example from Béla és Bandi is a true exception, it sets the benchmark for affordable kékfrankos – both stylistically and qualitatively.

This comes from the northern bank of Lake Balaton, from a region associated with white grapes not kékfrankos. Yet it sets the bar high. It’s pure and bright, kind of like a light, unoaked pinot noir. Full of cherries and freshness, it oozes cool climate. With an ideal 12,5% ABV and good acidity it is so drinkable. Light but intense and juicy. Very good wine (87 points), highly recommended. Great value, too (2450 HUF at Bortársasag, equals to 6€).