I collected a bunch of high-end blaufrankisch bottles in the last two years and earlier this year I was finally able to gather my friends (wine merchants, wine makers) to blindtaste this impressive line-up. The Prieler winery stole the show for me, in my view they are a benchmark when it comes to this variety. Moric is a quite different story – he is a pioneer but I must say it’s hard to like the wine style. By the way, talking about style, it’s so varied from producer to producer, from natural to New World-like, you really have to look for the estate first and foremost. I took my notes after the re-tasting.
Silvia Heinrich V-max 2018
Oaky, ripe and bold. The so called “international style” of red wine on show here that was popular 20 years ago. Lots of oak, not much varietal character. Coconuts, dried blackberries on the nose and some tertiary notes (forest floor). A concentrated, full-bodied red with a touch of sweetness and firm tannins. Approaches maturity, starts to mellow. I prefer purity, but I could not deny the appeal. And what a long aftertaste. 90-91 points, 50 €.
Prieler Ried Goldberg 2015
This is how top notch blaufrankisch should look like in my opinion. It has purity, great varietal expression and a cool climate character. Black cherries, sour cherries and black pepper spiciness on the nose. Tight on the palate with good acidity and pleasantly firm tannins. Lovely, crunchy texture, I wonder if there were whole bunches in the ferment (probably not). This is beautiful, energetic and captivating, a great wine. 92 points, 80 €.
Bukolyi Marcell Kékfrankos Reserve Nagy-Eged Grand Superior 2021
Very earthy aromatics, as common for Eger reds. Oldschool and a bit rustic. It has concentration but could be more polished, tannins are drying, acidity a bit sharp. Still very good, although edgy in style. 88 points, 25 €.
Esterhazy Blaufrankisch Grosshöflein 2019
A New World wine from Austria. So oaky. No varietal character, whatsoever. It’s concentrated, still young, will live long, but I could not drink a glass of it. Not for me. 84 points, 20 €.
Prieler Leithaberg 2019
Restrained. There is a kind of Right Bank merlot thing about it, a plushness and graphite notes, but you get the sour cherry aromas of blaufrankisch. Seamless, smooth with good acidity and firm yet integrated tannins. A refined, great wine, 91 points.
Domaine Marquis D’Angerville Volnay Taillepieds 1er Cru 2020
I’m not sure what happened here. Earthy, pre-mature and a bit simple. The refinement on the palate suggests some seriousness, but overall it tastes like a declining, relatively cheaper Burgundy. What a disappointment. 86 points. 180 €.
Dorli Muhr Ried Spitzerberg Erste Lage 2018
Lots of personality here, true to the Dorli Muhr style. Effortless, delicate and just a bit funky. A lot going on aromatically, it’s developed with notes of dried cherries, forest floor, leather and some star anise. Airy on the palate with a silky texture, focusing on balance and elegance, not power. Savoury and charming, I love this, although it lacks some length for a higher rating. Fully mature, don’t hold. 90 points. 85 €.
Heimann & Fiai Szívem Kékfrankos 2020
A bottle of this was really good two years ago, so this is not what I expected. A tiny bit of bubbles at opening, it obviously re-fermented in the bottle. Some natural wine character, animalistic notes, funk, a rounded palate. Declining and a bit simple (it’s the top wine of the producer). 84 points. 35 €
E. Triebaumer Ried Oberer Wald 2020
Definitely not ready. Lots of oak to integrate (less would be more), it’s very oldschool, not the cleanest – I would prefer way less oak and more precision. But it’s a different story on the palate: it’s tight, sinewy, massively structured like a Cornas. Great, firm, firm tannins and impressive density especially considering the moderate ABV (13,5% if I’m not mistaken). It’s still foursquare but its power is amazing. Do not open before 2027. 90+ points, 33,90 €
Moric Ried Kirchberg Lutzmannsburg Blaufränkisch 2021
Controversial. Smells like a natural wine, with iodine and aldehyde notes, lacks fruit. It’s the attack on the palate where it shines, it’s silken and concentrated even despite of the sharp, high++ acidity that makes it look thinner. That pronounced acidity also makes the already firm tannins too drying. While I get the seriousness it ultimately fails to impress, lacks grace, finesse and balance. Interesting to taste but I wonder who could enjoy even one glass of it? 85 points and I’m generous. 77 €, Suckling 95, Vinous 97 (I just can’t understand).
Prieler Ried Marienthal 2018
A beautiful nose, so inviting: tons of black sour cherries, great depth, purity. Some mint and licorice in the background. It starts to mellow on the palate but still has great density. You also get the classical brightness of blaufrankisch, the good, but integrated acidity. Textbook varietal character, complexity, charm, it’s another great wine from the producer. 92 points. 60 €. Ready now, drink up before 2029.