I tasted a bit more than a dozen Austrian Blaufrankisch wines in recent months, and when thinking about them the first thing that comes into my mind is that almost all of them was over-oaked to some extent. But here is an exception…
Quite funky after opening, but the taste… a wonderful mouthfeel, so polished yet unforced, and exceptionally lively. The structure reminds me of some new wave Spanish reds, was it fermented with whole bunches? Crunchy, lovely tannins. So different from the common, heavily oaked Blaufrankisch school. However the aromatics screw it up, it gets very barnyardy as it aerates, overwriting any varietal character, it’s kind of distracting at the end.
Rating: acceptable, 78 points.
Price: €14,50.
Stockists: Weinshop24 and others in Austria.
Tasted: April, 2021.
Source: own purchase.